TMBT 2016 - 30K Race

Date: 29 Oct 2016

Horizontal: 30km

Vertical: Elevation gain 2000m; elevation loss 1185m

Goal: To finish within the 10 hour cut off time

Spoiler alert: TMBT was the brutal and extreme day I've had. Although I didn't finish within the cut off time but I'm so proud of myself I FINISHED! If there's anything brutal than this, then I think it would be the TMBT 50K and 100K race LOL ~

Some introduction

TMBT (The Most Beautiful Thing) referring to the experience on a race course that not only takes your breath away in the land below the wind, Sabah, but leaves you with an experience to remember a lifetime. That's certainly true. TMBT distances this year were 12, 30, 50 and 100 KM. Some would think trail races are more difficult than road races because you are not in a controlled environment. The terrain is uneven, you might run into trees, fall into river, chased by dogs/cows, stung by bees ... the list could go on. But I would beg to differ, I don't think I would ever able to run a road ultra marathon. That would be a mind numbing torture experience for me. Of coz everyone is different. Most trail runners will tell you TMBT is the hardest trail race ever in this region, some international trail runners even flew to Sabah coz it is the hardest. I wouldn't know coz I have nothing to compare to. So is it wise to register myself for the hardest trail race? I don't know, you never know how far you can push your limit. I thought if I can do a full road running marathon, then maybe I can just dial down the trail race to 30K? 

Race day

We arranged for bus transfer pick up at Sutera Harbour. I woke up at 2.30 am, had some food and drove to Sutera Harbour and parked my car there. Our trip to the start line (Lingkubang, Kota Belud) was about 2 hours up and down winding road. I felt motion sickness, damn I was down before the race? The gentleman next to me is from Singapore offered me some salted candy. This is his second TMBT. He joined TMBT 50K last year but DNF coz can't meet the cut off time at the last water station, so registered for 30K this year. I noticed he got hot cream in his Salomon pack and I think to myself, if a 50K trail runner think that hot cream is crucial to add on, then I definitely should bring my Salonpas spray. I took out the spray from my drop bag and brought it along my race.

We got to Lingkubang 20 minutes before the flagged off at 7:30 am. But we only started at 7:50 am because some of the busses were late. 

The race course map below should give you an idea of the 12K and 30K route and terrain. We started earlier than the 30K. The first 4.5 km to the water station 1 (Kebayau) is uphill paved road. I read from some blog it was a scorching sun last year and it was dreadful in the first section. Today it was cloudy, a good start for us. There's no way I can run up this steep hill. A lot of us were just slowly embrace the paved uphill. The trail start after the first water station. I refilled my hydration bladder at every WS. 

12K and 30K race course map

30K course profile

30K race course data

The scenery is beautiful along the way. At first I don't think I would be awed by the scenery like others coz I'm also a Sabahan. But I was wrong, the hills and white river are scenic, villages, forest and farm are so beautiful. I wish to photograph all of these but too bad it was raining and I have to keep my phone in ziplock bag. The villagers are friendly. Some of them played traditional instruments and gong to motivate us, some would prepare free water station and tea for us. Children lined up to cheer for us. 

However it wasn't all that beautiful. I did my last 8 km with a guy from KL. We met at water station 3 (Lobong Lobong), had some nice noodle and ran off into the rain together. It was getting dark (dark cloud) and raining, so I was happy to find someone to pace with. You can see from the race course, the brutal part started at the last two peak (26 to 30 KM). It was a hard climb up. But I got to admit the view at 26-28 km is spectacularly breathtaking. I wish I can take a pic, but my hand was all muddy. My new friend told me it is best to see it with heart. It wont appear that amazing in picture. I think that's true.

The trail after WS1. This is among the easy hills

River crossing

How did I finish? Things done right:

1) Bringing all the right stuff

We were given with a list of mandatory kit. Although some people complained in FB that it was tedious and heavy to bring all those things, but as a first timer safety is absolute paramount. I brought everything listed, and happy I had it on that day. Remember to invest in a good rain jacket =)

The mandatory kit

My mandatory kit. Some of my must-have-medicine is not here
(diclofenac, naproxen, orphenadol, alucid, caffeine tablet)

2) Made friends

I attended the running clinic with a close friend (childhood friend) that also trained for TMBT together. Actually it was just the two of us in this TMBT. Others still stick to road running marathon. One thing strike me in the clinic when the race director, Aman said if we supposed to wait for our friends, or run the race the best we can. I joined TMBT with one thing in my mind, to have fun and finish it with my friend. Aman said there's nothing wrong if you want to wait for your friends and family, but don't you want to do your best too? I'm not fast either, I wouldn't want people to slow down for me. With the new mindset I decided to go with the pace I can and made friends along the way. 

Today I'm not just learned the word camaraderie. I fell and touched by it. It's not something we easily experienced on road running, where all competitors just run their own race to the finish line. But in trail, we are not just compete with each other, but comments like 'we can do this, keep going' were given and received. I met new friends and shared few kms with different comrades. The last 7km was really testing your endurance. I thought given another 3.5 hour left, I can finish it within the cut off time but no I was so wrong. It was raining, the trail was muddy. I don't think I can finish it if it wasn't for the others that would stay behind to help me crossed the river, pull me up when I was sliding down at the pineapple hill (uncountable time), waiting for me so that I wouldn't left out in the jungle by myself at 8pm. All of these supports and the perceived mutual respect for one another really warmed my heart. I was glad it was dark coz it literally bring tears to my eyes.

3) Took some time to enjoy The Most Beautiful Thing 

I have to say I don't regret for not pushing myself in that 10 hours and exceeded the cut-off time. The last 7 kms in particular were spectacularly beautiful. I wouldn't know they is such a paradise in a middle of nowhere. It was raining and mist were getting thicker and thicker. Many times I slowed down and just looked into the sky, white rivers and the mountains, filling my lungs with the cold air. 

However its was also The Most Brutal Thing. At some point I no longer bother if I would just end up DNF. I just want to finish the race in one piece. The last 4 km climb was really really muddy. My whole body was sticking to the ground, trying to bury my shin bone into the mud, my hands reaching up digging into the mud hoping to find some roots to hold on. But I wasn't that lucky every time. We were literally rock climbing but instead of rock, it was only mud with some pineapple plant here and there to hold on. I scared if I dropped my trekking pole and pierce someone below me, or someone above me dropped his pole and disfigure me. I think it's just sensible to just stop at that section and call for help. Some people stopped and called the help line. It was really hard to go on. Some out of food and water supply, lost headlights, hanging on loose branch, slipped in the dark and sprained their ankles. 

How did I finish? Things that could be better next time:

1) Bring two trekking poles (or an ice axe even better?)

Two is better than one, to climb up and descending the muddy hills.

2) Bring gloves
Just in case if I have to hold on pineapple plant anymore. And the rope burn is not nice.

3) Just walk through the river with shoes on

I really hate getting my feet wet and all blisters. I know we would have river crossing and decided to take off my shoes. I think I wasted 15-20 min in that process, trying to get my feet dry and sands out of the way. Now I think it was unnecessary. There's no way to keep your feet dry at all time. There were many stream of rivers (after the big river crossing) and then heavy rain again.

4) Lock lacing

I thought blue toenails injury is inevitable until I saw a 50K guy feet as good as new after the race. I finished my race with 8 blue toenails (TT sob sob..). It's my fault for letting my shoes loose because I hate the feeling of tightness around my feet. I usually get one or two blue toenails in road running marathon, but 8??? Ok, from now onwards I will aways heel lock.

At the finish line

I finished in 12 hours, exceeded the 10 hour cut off time but I just gave myself a pat on the shoulder. It is not about winning but there is something more. My shoes were caked in mud, my toes were throbbing, scratches and rope-burn on hands. I can feel bruises coming up from my shin bone. I'm happy (or bittersweet?) to be part of this, although I felt like puke when I first looked at the medal and finisher t-shirt. It was a horrible experience and I told myself that now I know my limit and I will never put myself in such situation anymore. This is the most extreme things I ever did in my life. 

I heard from others that there were landslide and some were re-routed to main road at the last 2-4 km. Some were fetched by bus to the finish line coz many ahead of them were stuck for hours. I don't know if we were at the landslide area but we definitely look like the victims from the landslide. So I don't feel so bad for not finishing within cut-off time coz the last 2 km peak really took us 2 hours.

There were plenty of food provided at the finish line but I kinda disappointed coz there were no meat. I had spaghetti with vegetable and tomato gravy. They were hot tea and coffee also, perfect for Nabalu cold temperature. A lot of people were wrapped in their emergency blanket. I glad I brought my sarong so I can keep my emergency blanket (for next time?). 

I waited for my friend at the hall although many of the 30k and 50k already left. I felt bad to leave without her coz we came together. I also worried if she was stuck by herself at the muddy hill and it was dark and cold out there. I was so sleepy but I just can't leave without seeing her. We were lucky to catch the last bus transfer at 11:30 pm. Otherwise we would have to sleep at that hall in cold and covered in mud, waiting for tomorrow 100K bus transfer.

So we made our way back to KK. The road back was downhill, long, steep and winding. I got motion sickness again. I believed I was groaning but I don't give a damn anymore. We got to Sutera Harbour at 1:30 am. I don't think I can drive at this hour and pain so I requested for Uber (my first time). My Uber was nice to dive thru McDonald to get some chicken. I really need real food after what I have been through. I got back home, showered and enjoyed my chicken until 5am and went to bed. 

The next morning

I went to sleep without setting any alarm. I thought I gonna sleep for at least 12 hours but no, woke up after 6 hours and feeling replenished. I guess the chicken really do my body a favour hehe. Remember I was feeling nauseated after the race and swore I wont do anything like this anymore? Apparently after a good sleep and some food, my mind reset and woke up feeling to sign up for BUTM 2017 50K LOL ~~~

My newly bought Gelert rainjacket starts to delaminate.
I only wore it once during training.

I don't think there's anything I can do to revive it anymore.
There goes my GBP11, purchased from SportsDirect UK.
What can I say, it really protected my from the pouring rain and mud climbing.

This is really a blood-and-sweat little medal

Hand: rope-burn and pineapple plant cuts
Legs: 8 bruises on shin bones, blood blisters and throbbing-sensitive toenails
Other than that, I felt pretty good =)

Two days after the race, I packed my bag for a trip to Indonesia (Jogja to Bandung to Jakarta).
A proud finisher at the volcanic crate Tangkuban Parahu, Bandung =)

My final thought on TMBT, I would like to thank the organiser for such an amazing experience. Dedication and commitment are not good enough to express what they did.

Feel free to check out my training in other post =)